Part 3: En route to Ushuaia for my Voyage to Antarctica

Hanging out with Annie and Toni the night before I fly, Sydney

So excited I was six hrs early

Ballina-Sydney-Santiago de Chile-BuenosAires-Ushuaia
Tuesday 18th Feb - a bit excited - I get my friend Toni up to take me to Sydney International Airport by 7am, thinking my flight is 10am. It is actually at 12.45pm. Six hours early. Oops! Waiting doesn't phase me, luckily. I love to people watch. After three overseas trips in twelve months I have concluded I like long haul travel.



Just before the light on the departure board turns green for boarding, I ring Mum. A lovely farewell chat about many things that are all new news for her. She does know I am heading off on a sailing adventure. Five weeks will seem like a lifetime for her. Dear Mumma. She often says to me after only several days that she's not heard from me in a month. It triggers me when she says that. That feeling you get when you feel falsely accused. I have to catch myself before reacting with defence. I manage mostly. She asks me to write her a letter now and again during the trip - even if I don't send them.

"Cabin crew arm doors and cross check." The Qantas aircraft backs out of the terminal. Funny listening to the Australian accents on the recorded messages. Sounds foreign after most previous airlines I've caught. Qantas is in partnership with Latam Airlines with whom I have booked my flights. 

Up and away - the miracle of flight. Opera House, Harbour Bridge and Sydney Harbour, resplendent under a blue sky; although water discoloured after all the rain. The view from Brett and Wendy Whitely's house passes below. And there's Shark Island off Cronulla. We're headed due east towards South America. The hostie helps me find my screen, table and recliner button, as I am sitting directly behind the bulkhead near the galley. I'm good to go now.

I make guesses at the people around me, their relationships and purpose for travel. It's much easier people watching across the aisle than in my own row. As I look around so many are already asleep - the plane still on an upward trajectory, I'm guessing we've been in the air 15 minutes or less.

Eventually, the menu is handed out and I eagerly tick my choice, then scoff at myself...the menu is so the stewards don't have to repeat themselves several hundred times, der... I'm going with the salad of smoked salmon with edamame beans, zucchini and black bean noodles with garlic sea salt and oregano focaccia. I can smell the focaccia baking. Hungry.

The young man and fortyish something woman next to me, whom I initially assumed to be mother and son heading back to Chile to visit extended family; I now realise actually don't know each at all haha.. They too are very keen to eat as they ready their trays and watch the stewards like hawks. By the time lunch finally arrives, I think our row of three is officially last on the plane.

Sanitago de Chile airport flash mob

Mohito after breakfast

At Santiago de Chile, it's 3am Sydney time when we land. I sit at a restaurant to use their wifi, and having just had breakfast, promptly order a Mojito. A flash mob of staff from a nearby cafe jump out from behind their counter and do a little number.

Waiting at Buenos Aires
Domestic airport overnight

Second leg is Sanitiago de Chile to Buenos Aires International, from where I make my way by bus to the domestic terminal and spend many hours laying about waiting for the third and final flight to Ushuaia. My first ever Google Translate conversation is there with Miguel, a 23yo Argentinian Hair stylist who is on his way home after some training in Chile. He introduces me to mate, a hot drink made from yerba. He tells me it is made of 'grass'. It does taste reminiscent of something...maybe it is grass! Miguel insists next time I am back in Argentina I must visit his area Bariloche. The images look stunning.

Cold outside Ushuaia airport

Thursday 20th Feb, when I walk out of Ushuaia Airport early morning, the cold is bitter. Quite a bit more south than Tasmania, and not far from Antarctica. There is snow on the Andes above the city. A cotton top and light poncho is not enough. I turn right back around to open my bag and find my trusty wrap, and not-yet-worn down jacket. I take a taxi, drop my bag at the accommodation,and find a cosy cafe with wifi. I order a mate and salty croissant and wait by the fireplace for my host, Frederico, to whatsapp that he's done cleaning. I've been travelling for over forty hours and am ready to get comfy in my home for the next four nights.

Upstairs second door.

bed...aahhh....

Frederico wants the $380AUD to be paid in Argentinian pesos cash (15,568 AP) which takes some organising. Wet weather jacket required, two banks, and a guy in a restaurant who exchanges money in a back room. I don't have any Spanish language...

Living room

I go to the supermarket nearby and buy four days worth of groceries. I'm on a budget and making my own food is going to be the cheapest option. The apartment is close to everything and warm. All the new clothes I bought are proving great thus far. I shower, and drink an Argentinian stout.  And then sleep for 9 hours.
I like the writing above my bed which translates to: "It starts with a dream at the end of the world."

Part 2: Preparing for my Voyage to Antarctica

relieved after receiving the call
giving me the all clear 15/3/2018

After missing out on various attempts to get onboard Barque Europa to Antarctica, the application I submitted on the 4th January 2019 was the one. The phone rang late at night on the 8th; Adam Purser from Classic Sailing in England was saying I had to send a Medical certificate in order to be offered a place on one of two February 2020 Antarctica voyages. His follow-up email said, "Please note as you have had chemotherapy, we will require a form completed by your doctor to accompany your application. Thank you for your understanding on the phone just now. "
The email stated that Barque Europa office staff were working with numbers of applications, health information, males and females, couples, and cabin configurations. They needed to know who was approved to come. Adam concluded: "When we are able to confirm your booking we will send an email asking for a deposit of 30% payable within 7 days and a comprehensive kit list for Antarctica."

There was an ensuing flurry of emails between Adam, me, my Dr and Barque Europa as I tried to get this organised urgently. First things first, I had to get approved for a place offering and then I would work out the $'s. I was never so excited to receive an email, over three weeks later, asking me for a huge amount of money.

"Congratulations, I am sure you are very excited.The ship’s office have received the OK from their doctor, provided that you let Europa know shortly before the voyage that you still do not need any treatments and show no symptoms.The Europa office have strongly advised you to arrange cancellation insurance as soon as you pay for the trip as if you are forced to cancel due to unforeseen (health) circumstances, then there would be no refund."

Classic Sailing sent you an invoice for €8,380.00. Payment (1 of 2) for €4,190.00 is due on July 3, 2019.

I was confident my health would stand the test of time. And I had enough money in the bank to pay the 30%. (The full amount over the next ten months was the equivalent of $13,650 or thereabouts.  Added to that were the return flights to Ushuaia Argentina, items needed as per the Kit List, accommodation in Ushuaia at both ends of the trip - all up it came to pretty much $20,000AUD).

Turns out 2019 was a big year for travel, and generally haemorrhaging money... I sold my house which was a great start to the year. Thereafter, I was juggling funds between:

Patchs Beach house purchase,
Mar 2019

Bollywood Dancing India, Feb-Mar 2019

Shelterbox fundraising Trek
Larapinta NT, Aug 2019

renovations at Patchs Beach, May 2019

I ain't complaining!
 

Expressionist painting workshop in
Cornwall with Paul Wadsworth Sept 2019.

These things happened in order. I dealt with each as they came around - trying to keep all the balls in the air, while focusing on the one in front of me at any given time. The Voyage to Antarctica was last cab off the rank so to speak, when it came to preparations. Except there were rolling payments to be made.

The thing that adversely affected my financial preparations for this voyage, was that J's electronics business, which I had continued to run from the time he became ill, came to a grinding halt without any real warning in June 2019. It had one customer. 
J designed and manufactured the 'brains' of a small crane, that operated off the back of a ute, for moving bee hives around. There were six boards per system, including remote control and level sensor, receiver and transmitter, and control panel. I, with the indispensable and much appreciated help of my cousin, continued to supply the owner of that business, in J's absence. Over six years we supplied more than 200 systems; version 3.2.  

Level Sensor

Main Board

Remote Control

I understood the electronic designs were pretty old by now, and had a use by date. Parts were getting harder to source, and my cousin, who had been making the boards, had given notice. I'd sourced a new manufacturer (another huge transition for 2019), who had provided one order's worth of boards. I was ever hopeful we would get another order or two before the work ceased altogether. But June 2019, I discovered through the grapevine, that the owner of the small crane business had a prototype being made elsewhere. And, although he said he was going to order from me again - he didn't.

My J - in the early days of his illness 2014

No regrets. A miraculous legacy my J left me, for which I am eternally grateful. He convinced me I could do it. I had to be brave to take it on - so kudos to me!!

There you have it.
 
At that point I was relying on my admin earnings,  and the remains of the money in the bank. This is where it all gets a bit stressful!

Dad - at maybe my age

With kit list in hand, I pulled out a suitcase and items from my cupboard that might tick a few boxes. One set of Aldi thermals. One Aldi ski jacket. Five pairs thick socks. I tried jeans on over thermals in high summer heat. Four pairs were good to pack. I visited Mum, and looked in my late Dad's cupboard, hoping to find wool jumpers. I knew Dad would love me to take a piece of him sailing to Antarctica, and figured his big jumpers would go over many warm layers. I found two that Mum had knitted - so got to take a piece of both of them.

Kit List

More Kit List

I thought I'd pick up some bargains while painting in Cornwall in Sept. The reality was, I couldn't afford to shop, nor did I have room to bring stuff home. I bought socks. After Cornwall I worked as many hours as I could, and limped towards my Antarctica departure date. An invoice from the electrician, for works done on the extensions, was the last straw. I hadn't been this stressed about money for years. Another payment plan hatched. My income was paying off the outgoings - then I was living skinny till the next fortnight. I was still excited and knew I would get there - I just had to work out how.



To raise extra money to put towards the trip, I held an art exhibition on 7th November, 2019 at my friends' stained glass and mosaic shop in Lismore. That was quite a personal challenge. I called it "A Bit Brave," and it featured 25 of the paintings I did in Cornwall. Acrylic on paper mainly. My community supported me with their presence and plates of food. I made a nervous speech (didn't have time to rehearse my nerves away...) Ten paintings sold! A very special experience and my Mum was proud. 

paintings arrive in the mail from UK

"A Bit Brave" Art Exhibition, Lismore Nov 2019

Fires were burning everywhere. On 6th Dec 2019, a raging fire went through Currawinya, the property where I have been building my mud house for the past sixteen years. The news was devastating for our shareholders - we lost a dozen homes and there are about eight remaining. I am  one of the lucky ones. I lost the caravan I stay in when I go out there, and the shed with some items in it; but that was nothing compared to many of my Currawinyan family, who lost everything.

Used to be my caravan

House, dunny and two full plastic water tanks all in tact...
miraculously.

Used to be my shed

As Christmas approached I was trying to pull it all together - and didn't want to get into financial strife. So, I decided to rent out the upstairs of my house to solve the problem. I made an ad, put it on Gumtree, and a lovely couple and their dog contacted me almost immediately, keen as mustard. We met and it felt like a really good fit for all of us. I didn't meet any others. We made a plan for early January after Christmas and voila! I could breath again, and they were stoked.





There were a million logistics that I won't bore you with. The tenants helped me move stuff around and I worked like a slave getting the house into a state that I was happy to hand over. I moved to a small bedsit closer to work. Some of my friends and family seemed a little shocked at the sudden change of arrangement - but hey, you got to do what you got to do. 

Once in to January, the trip was only six weeks away. Geez Louise... the preparations were ramping up big time. I went shopping at Kathmandu on the last day of a friend's work there, using her discount - and there was a huge sale on which was very timely. In the space of an hour, I bought all remaining items needed, for $600, and saved $1300 according to my friend. Another dear friend spotted me for the airfares/insurance. Yep; I had waited till now to get insurance because needs must. A bit close for comfort. (Thankfully no claims required anyway.)

'Hardly used' compost loo!

I managed to make more money by advertising and selling a few large items I'd been meaning to move on for years. An oxygen concentrator and attachments that J had bought to use when he was sick (based on some alternative thinking), but he never got to use it so it was as new in the box but six years old. An Infrared IC heater no longer needed due to the demise of the electronics work. And a composting toilet I had installed in a shed when transforming it into a cottage. After using it for a week I decided I would have a flushing loo thank you, because I could. All three items sold easily and for reasonable money. I started to breath normally. I booked accommodation in Ushuaia for the five days I would be there prior to boarding Barque Europa on the 24th February 2020.

Nearly there

wet weather gear

Left to buy was wet weather gear, duffle bags, snow gloves, goggles, wool liner gloves, wool buff, waterproof gloves, rubber boots, natural toiletries, Chemist items, European electrical adaptor, waterproof phone cover, journal and luggage tags. I borrowed scarves and beanies. My cousin gave me four wool undies!

I wrote a new will and left my affairs in a state my kids could make sense of. I wrote a letter to loved ones should anything happen to me. I cancelled several commitments over the last days to do these things and to pack. I deliberately didn't research the trip other than must-have info. I wanted my experience to be fresh.

My life in a
deceptively tidy pile.

My (37kg) bags were packed and I was ready.... 

Sydney International Airport 18th Feb 2020

Part 1: Motivation for my Voyage to Antarctica

Barque Europa

Different boat but same destination - Antarctica

As my voyage became a reality, I kept these two pictures in my phone, one of Barque Europa and one of the Antarctic landscape, to look at often. When I told people I was going on a tall ship to Antarctica, most didn't visualise such a ship. I think they thought I meant a tall cruise ship. I'd flash them a look at these pictures and the penny would drop, their eyes would light up as the romance of the voyage sank in. Not everybody could see themselves taking such a voyage - in fact the mere thought of it made some sea sick, or just plain terrified. But others were lit up by the idea, and hopefully will be inspired in the future to do something similar.


My inspiration came after I'd lost my darling J in 2015, followed by my own illness in 2017. My 60th birthday was coming up at the end of 2018 and I wanted to go on a life affirming holiday. My heart was set on sailing.

Gallant

Gallant - Dad and Mum's
yacht

I have always loved sailing, having done lots of coastal sailing earlier in my life.

My dad, Frank, had several sailing boats over time, and they played a big part in our family.

(NB: Please forgive my photos - I currently don't have access to many pre digital photos - they are in photo albums in a storage shed).

In 1986, I met and later married my second husband, my children's father. He owned a half share in a lovely 9m timber Herreshoff ketch, Roving Tar. She had been sailed to Australia from Vancouver by her previous owners. We bought the other half share and spent all our spare time on her for eight years. During this time we did a trip with friends on their yacht to Lord Howe Island, my first experience of ocean sailing.

Roving Tar circa 1990

We sold "The Tar" in 1994 and bought  Wild Wave, a 14.5m huon pine sloop that had been built in Tasmania for the 1953 Sydney to Hobart race.  We were making plans to sail around the world. Our children were both under two years old. My bible at the time was a book called 'Dolphins at Sunset" by Elizabeth Thurston. I read many books about sailing the world including another favourite, a biography by Anita Leslie about Sir Francis Chichester. And, we were following Kay Cottee's solo circumnavigation of the world on First Lady.

In the 1953 Sydney-Hobart Muir took line honours and was placed fourth on handicap with Wild Wave, a yacht he had designed. This was ‘the first Tasmanian owned, built, and skippered boat to finish first across the line’ (Mercury 1954, 1). His elation was short lived, however, as the boat was disqualified for infringements at the starting line.

(link)

photo of Wild Wave from 1954

Sadly, that adventure didn't float. We sold Wild Wave about a year after we bought her.

I hate to admit the last time I remember sailing was around my 40th birthday back in 1998. My husband, small kids, parents and step son chartered a 40ft catamaran "Imagine" for a couple of weeks in the Whitsundays.

Current day photo of Wild Wave

Since then, a life time of changes, and time passing surprisingly fast, finds me twenty years later still hankering to sail, while age and fitness allow. I have never let go of my love for the sailing lifestyle. These days I stay inspired by following such YouTube channels as "Sailing Nandji" - about a much younger couple but none the less - which speak to my, as yet, unrealised dream. So, when I was planning a life affirming adventure, sailing definitely had to be part of it.  

I was on a "Classic Sailing" email list from 2016 and aware of an endless choice of sailing trips aboard classic vessels worldwide.  I received the all clear regarding my illness on the 15th March 2018. I enquired about a voyage on Bark Europa to Antarctica 3 days later, I wanted a trip to coincide with my birthday in October. I missed out that year, discovering how popular these voyages are. My booking to Antarctica 24 February - 16 March 2020 was approved in January 2019. Excited! Now, I just had to pay for it; which took me every skerrick of the time in between, to pull the money together for the voyage, airfares, required clothing and incidental costs.


At the same time I had decided to sell the property J and I owned for nine years, as it was getting too much to look after, and too isolated for me on my own. No sooner did I put it on the For Sale By Owner site, than it sold - took three days. I got it into my head I had earned myself the agent's commission fee! And that is how I would pay for the trip. I promptly bought another house, which meant of course that the said agent's fee I had 'earned' was spent and therefore the cost of the trip had to come out of my own coffers. By the time that penny dropped, thankfully, I had committed to this trip, and I had to start chewing the enormous bite I had taken.

(It must be noted: I also went on a Bollywood dancing trip to India, a trek in Larapinta to raise money for Shelterbox, and a painting workshop in Cornwall with artist Paul Wadsworth in that twelve months - so I certainly set myself a task)