Part 3: En route to Ushuaia for my Voyage to Antarctica

Hanging out with Annie and Toni the night before I fly, Sydney

So excited I was six hrs early

Ballina-Sydney-Santiago de Chile-BuenosAires-Ushuaia
Tuesday 18th Feb - a bit excited - I get my friend Toni up to take me to Sydney International Airport by 7am, thinking my flight is 10am. It is actually at 12.45pm. Six hours early. Oops! Waiting doesn't phase me, luckily. I love to people watch. After three overseas trips in twelve months I have concluded I like long haul travel.



Just before the light on the departure board turns green for boarding, I ring Mum. A lovely farewell chat about many things that are all new news for her. She does know I am heading off on a sailing adventure. Five weeks will seem like a lifetime for her. Dear Mumma. She often says to me after only several days that she's not heard from me in a month. It triggers me when she says that. That feeling you get when you feel falsely accused. I have to catch myself before reacting with defence. I manage mostly. She asks me to write her a letter now and again during the trip - even if I don't send them.

"Cabin crew arm doors and cross check." The Qantas aircraft backs out of the terminal. Funny listening to the Australian accents on the recorded messages. Sounds foreign after most previous airlines I've caught. Qantas is in partnership with Latam Airlines with whom I have booked my flights. 

Up and away - the miracle of flight. Opera House, Harbour Bridge and Sydney Harbour, resplendent under a blue sky; although water discoloured after all the rain. The view from Brett and Wendy Whitely's house passes below. And there's Shark Island off Cronulla. We're headed due east towards South America. The hostie helps me find my screen, table and recliner button, as I am sitting directly behind the bulkhead near the galley. I'm good to go now.

I make guesses at the people around me, their relationships and purpose for travel. It's much easier people watching across the aisle than in my own row. As I look around so many are already asleep - the plane still on an upward trajectory, I'm guessing we've been in the air 15 minutes or less.

Eventually, the menu is handed out and I eagerly tick my choice, then scoff at myself...the menu is so the stewards don't have to repeat themselves several hundred times, der... I'm going with the salad of smoked salmon with edamame beans, zucchini and black bean noodles with garlic sea salt and oregano focaccia. I can smell the focaccia baking. Hungry.

The young man and fortyish something woman next to me, whom I initially assumed to be mother and son heading back to Chile to visit extended family; I now realise actually don't know each at all haha.. They too are very keen to eat as they ready their trays and watch the stewards like hawks. By the time lunch finally arrives, I think our row of three is officially last on the plane.

Sanitago de Chile airport flash mob

Mohito after breakfast

At Santiago de Chile, it's 3am Sydney time when we land. I sit at a restaurant to use their wifi, and having just had breakfast, promptly order a Mojito. A flash mob of staff from a nearby cafe jump out from behind their counter and do a little number.

Waiting at Buenos Aires
Domestic airport overnight

Second leg is Sanitiago de Chile to Buenos Aires International, from where I make my way by bus to the domestic terminal and spend many hours laying about waiting for the third and final flight to Ushuaia. My first ever Google Translate conversation is there with Miguel, a 23yo Argentinian Hair stylist who is on his way home after some training in Chile. He introduces me to mate, a hot drink made from yerba. He tells me it is made of 'grass'. It does taste reminiscent of something...maybe it is grass! Miguel insists next time I am back in Argentina I must visit his area Bariloche. The images look stunning.

Cold outside Ushuaia airport

Thursday 20th Feb, when I walk out of Ushuaia Airport early morning, the cold is bitter. Quite a bit more south than Tasmania, and not far from Antarctica. There is snow on the Andes above the city. A cotton top and light poncho is not enough. I turn right back around to open my bag and find my trusty wrap, and not-yet-worn down jacket. I take a taxi, drop my bag at the accommodation,and find a cosy cafe with wifi. I order a mate and salty croissant and wait by the fireplace for my host, Frederico, to whatsapp that he's done cleaning. I've been travelling for over forty hours and am ready to get comfy in my home for the next four nights.

Upstairs second door.

bed...aahhh....

Frederico wants the $380AUD to be paid in Argentinian pesos cash (15,568 AP) which takes some organising. Wet weather jacket required, two banks, and a guy in a restaurant who exchanges money in a back room. I don't have any Spanish language...

Living room

I go to the supermarket nearby and buy four days worth of groceries. I'm on a budget and making my own food is going to be the cheapest option. The apartment is close to everything and warm. All the new clothes I bought are proving great thus far. I shower, and drink an Argentinian stout.  And then sleep for 9 hours.
I like the writing above my bed which translates to: "It starts with a dream at the end of the world."